Regular readers may remember that, in my post
of September 17th, I had mentioned a friend’s daughter whose class
had no teacher – exactly one month on, and as of yesterday, they now have a
teacher, believe it or not. The headmaster had refused to join two classes
together as that would make a class of 30 – which his teachers ‘would refuse to
teach’ according to him. A law has recently been passed by which teachers vote
as to whether the headmaster was a ‘good’ one and should remain in post. It’s
fairly clear who holds the reins there - an ineffective manager will try to
hold on to his post by currying staff favour. But at least our little friend no
longer returns home from school every day at 11.00 am!
As a past teacher-trainer both in the private
and public sectors, I can say that Greece has an extremely highly trained body
of teachers. Many of them have Master’s degrees and Doctorates and are very
committed - Greeks have always laid
great importance on education. Many feel frustrated when they have Head
Teachers such as the one in this scenario where there is no real management.
Keen teachers are often discouraged from acting professionally by their predominant,
lethargic colleagues.
What a waste of exceptional resources!!
Onto more positive things:
This year from 10th -18th September
THE big annual local event was held: Thessaloniki celebrated her 80th
International Trade Fair, waiving
the entrance fee to those born in 1980 and to all octogenarians!
A huge elephant,
sporting an enticing stairway and balcony, intrigued many of the younger
visitors.
Old and young alike
could not help being drawn to the large Willie Wonka-esque exhibition- a clever
joint-project organized by biscuit and chocolate producers. Here we are waiting
patiently - well, almost- to have our biscuits coated at the chocolate fountain
– mmm!
And if it’s a hooley you’re after, well there is a knees-up
on tap : the lads are just strumming their instruments, warming up for a good
old bouzouki-bash!
But my real goal was to visit Las Incantadas or The Enchanted Ones for which a special exhibition had been mounted.
These probably formed a part of an important public building in the late 2nd
and early 3rd centuries AD
roughly in the vicinity of what is now Aristotle Square.
!7th and 18th century
travellers and artists described as impressive the 13 metre-high façade of the
2-storey colonnade with Corinthian columns on the lower level. On the upper
floor were the four pillars that concern us here. These were decorated on their
two main faces by eight reliefs of mythological figures.
Now we will look at those in the
inner sides of the pillars: in each case on the left we see copies of what
remains of the original pieces, now housed in the Louvre Museum in Paris. Alongside each one is a clearer rendition
from late 18th century copper engravings by J. Stuart and N. Revett.
Below we see Leda and the Swan. Leda was Queen of Sparta with whom Zeus fell in
love, transforming himself into a swan to attract her. The story goes that she
took the swan into her embrace to protect it as it was being hunted by an
eagle. She bore two sets of twins from Zeus: Helen (of Troy) and Polydeuces,
also known as Pollox. From her husband she bore Castor and Clytemnestra.
Their coupling is described in W
B Yeat’s powerful poem, Leda and the Swan, the first verse of which you can
see below:
A sudden blow: the
great wings beating still
Above the staggering girl, her thighs caressed
By the dark webs, her nape caught in his bill,
He holds her helpless
breast upon his breast.
Next is Ariadne, daughter of King Minos of Crete. She fell in love with
Theseus and helped him escape from the minotaur in the labyrinth by giving him
thread to mark his passage and be able to retrace his steps. On the way to
Athens, she was abandoned on the island of Naxos by this callous youth,
claiming he was ordered to do so by Dionysus whose island that was - hmmm! Taken by her beauty, Dionysus married her and
took her to Olympus. Legend has it that
he gave her a golden diadem which was so brilliant it became the constellation
known as Corona Borealis.
Here Ariadne is seen wearing a
belt and headdress of ivy and the vine, both sacred plants of Dionysus.
And now to Dionysus himself,
son of Zeus and the god of wine, the
vine and revelry as well as the god of fertility and the rebirth of nature. He
was often attended by the Maenads, nymphs who worshipped him with rowdy
processions and frenzied dancing. They frequently wore masks in their
revelries. Ancient dramas and modern theatre are said to have derived from
Dionysian worship.
Here he can be seen holding vine branches and he is
accompanied by his favourite animal, the panther.
As the last piece of the inner
decoration we have a Maenad, one of
Dionysus’ companions. Their name is related to ‘mania’ or frenzy since, in
their ceremonies of worship, their emotions reached fever-pitch or frenzy due
to drunkenness and orgiastic dance.
Here, with her light robe billowing around
her, the maenad is dancing and playing a flute.
On that lyrical note we end …..…. to be continued!
