Friday 29 November 2013

Bad Tourism, Bracelets, Bears and Booze




Autumn in Greece is a lovely season when the sun transforms itself  from white-hot to a much more comfortable,mellow yellow. H and I took ourselves off to a sea-side resort in the south-west, to Prevesa Beach Hotel. We lucked out as we were right next to the stairwell and so our ‘room’ was actually a suite : we had a nicely decorated room and bathroom ….. and a lovely spacious sitting room as well – no complaints from us! 
     



 



  



                      
I remember years ago, while I was orally examining an IELTS candidate from Halkidiki, being surprised to hear her talk about ‘bad tourists’.  How could foreign visitors bringing cash into Greece possibly be bad? She was referring to those who came on pre-paid all-in package tours and who, to her mind, were bad since their cash was channeled almost exclusively into the host hotel rather than spread out across the other catering or retail outlets in the area. Seems to me if the hotel management has shown the initiative and made the effort to offer such packages and attract such tourists in the first place, then they are entitled to as much of that income pie as they wish!  

  Anyway, in her eyes we were there as ‘bad tourists’ – the minute we checked in at reception we were presented with red plastic bracelets to indicate we were guests there on full board.
 At the Pizza Hut in Kuwait, I used to suppose some of the locals could be up for Guinness Book of Records entry for how much food they could pack into the single, smallish bowls each customer could fill from the salad bar. And there was a real art involved in stashing as much in there as you could:
The trick was to fill the base with any ‘loose’ ingredients – rice, kidney beans, sweetcorn,beetroot, etc.. Round the sides of the bowl you next constructed a ‘wall’ of carrot, celery or cucumber slices or batons to hold content nicely in place. This you then fill with potato salad, tsatziki, taramas, etc. -   a nice         sticky layer into which the rest of your selected food could then be wedged – ingenious, huh ? 

 At Prevesa Beach Hotel, piled-high plates were greatly in evidence at breakfast, lunch and dinner  as guests  took full advantage of the generous buffet on offer for every meal. And between meals in the pool areas and in the lounges there were snacks and drinks available as well as an endless supply of ice-cream.  At times watching what some greedy gutsies were downing was tantamount to undergoing   food-aversion therapy.
Despite the fact that  the chefs  were catering for so many people, the quality of food was really good. Being a Brit, I am always keen to sample a cooked breakfast, so each lunchtime I resolved to have only a salad. But each buffet invariably held something to tempt me: memorable were the rabbit stew and the spinach and artichokes with cheese and a creamy bechamel topping – delicious ! Just as well we had the sea and swimming pools  astone’s throw from our room so we could attempt to work off some of these calories by swimming or walking in the beautiful grounds and surrounds.  


 
 








     The sign on the employees’ sitting room door did not, I think, express the fact that management saw personnel as inanimate objects – at any rate, as you can see above, they were a cheery bunch, ever ready to be of service.  My only complaint was that on two occasions  I eagerly went to the basement gym ready to participate in Pilates and traditional Greek dance as advertised, but nothing came of them. They said there was no interest in them, but a little bit of  promotion could well have done the trick. I am an avid brochure reader, but most people were unaware these activities were on offer. 
 




  On our last evening we had sundowners on the terrace overlooking the sea, and learned that management had  a treat in store for us : instead of the usual dinner buffet, they had laid on a barbecue. We had some excellent and plenteous (as ever!) roasted meats, salads and sweets . Thank goodness they had organised  live music as well so we took advantage of that and got some post-prandial exercise into the bargain.




 







                      
Although it was way past her bedtime, this little mite below was having the time of her life, Dad-dancing. She went on for ages, bobbing up and down in time to the music, with her chubby cheeks creased in a wonderful smile.  Actually, proud papa looked as if he was having a pretty good time too. 


 









                    
So sated, in every sense of the word, we left the hotel, travelling north through a warren of tunnels hewn through the mountains. This one is over four kilometres long – a definite feat of engineering but not for those with serious claustrophobia. 






         On the road, we see my favourite sign warning drivers that they are driving through the natural habitat of the bear ( a tunnel constructed just to protect them)  – so what is that symbol of a graceful gazelle doing there ? !








 We by-pass Ioannina and head for Metzovo, a picturesque mountain village. When you see how some of the village houses appear to hover over the crevasse below, you realize that this place is not for those who suffer from vertigo to make their home. I shudder to think how one gets about on these roads during the inevitable winter freeze.
                              




 
                                      
  



                     
 Our goal there is to visit the Katogi Averoff winery surrounded by beautiful houses in the traditional style, nestling in mountains which are part of the Pindos range.   A son of Metzovon, Evangelos Averoff was a well-known politician. Initially, in an effort to boost the finances of his home area,   in the late 1950s, he brought the first Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to Greece. Breaking new ground, both literally and metaphorically, he blended these grapes with traditional Greek strains to produce his famous Katogi red.  We may have arrived in shorts and T-s but we are here to stock up our cellar with winter reds. A particular favourite of H’s is Ktima Averoff, a rich red of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.  The sales-lady suggests we try a new blend, Augustos, which uses some grapes from the Peloponnese area. 

 



         Who are we to argue?   We’re planning to have a warming winter – cheers !