Friday 31 July 2015

The Greek Reality



In my last two posts I talked about the reality of our daily life in Greece during the current crisis.

 Yet the term ‘Greek reality’ is one I do not particularly like to hear. 

Years ago, when I was a course tutor on a Cambridge DTEFLA teacher training course, one course participant decided it was time to put me straight on what that was. According to her, this reality meant   Greeks never meet deadlines, don’t take things too seriously (presumably as course tutor I was doing just that!), do not like being told what to do. My response to her was if she wanted internationally acknowledged certification then she had to set her sights higher.

Another course participant submitted all her assignments on time, consistently gave of her very best and was adored by her students.   It came as no surprise, then, to learn that one did not make the grade, while the other gained distinctions in both the theoretical and the practical components.

Sometimes, say, when I’ve voiced disapproval of the pushing and shoving that is getting on a local bus, I’ve been told ‘ This is Greece!’ – subtext: ‘like it or not !’ Now I know there are sensitivities attached to a foreigner criticizing something of one’s own country – I get that; but not the fact that one expresses the phrase almost with pride when the situation is a third world one. 

 A friend recently used that term to me when I’d made what I thought was a reasonable observation about a situation she thought was hopeless, while I disagreed.

 And this ‘Greek reality’ phrase raises my hackles for a variety of reasons: 

·         Firstly it’s condescending; the implication being: I know, you don’t!
·         It usually debases whatever aspect of Greek life is being discussed as being the overall given state and with no alternative: yes, it’s deplorable but that’s the way it is – immutable.
·         It implies you’re ‘stoopid’ since you’re unaware of the environment in which you live, and, worse still, you’re naïve enough to think things can improve.


Let me give you a glimpse of what Greek reality is for me: 
 As a teacher I have had the privilege of working with some of the finest minds: 

·         A fifth form student preparing for admission to Ivy League US universities gained in her English SATs (¾ of the overall sum) scores which surpassed the total score of the then US president in all four of his subjects.
·         Meeting a young man in the street some years after he’d been a little chubby 1st grader in my Elementary class, we chatted about his future plans. He wanted to study Nuclear Physics and, since I knew he held the University of Cambridge Proficiency in English, I assumed he’d be heading for an American University. His response – that he was also considering studying in Moscow since he was equally proficient in the Russian language – blew me away. Humbling! 

These were just two of the many students who had defined their goals and had given all of their considerable talents to reaching them. These young people represent Greece and Greeks more than those featured in the Go Greek For A Week program on recipients of early pensions and fat bonuses. 

So, my friend, you can keep your Greek reality where you’ve given up almost completely on things here and the possibility of improvement. I’m certainly going to hang on to mine.  Yes, things could be run more fairly and efficiently. Yes, the politicians have short-changed the electorate for many years. People who believed they would benefit from political patronage and continued to vote for those who were operating within a corrupt, bureaucratically bloated system. But gradually the old regime is being pensioned off while new blood and new perspectives take its place.

Since I first came here as a tourist, I have always felt a huge affinity with the Greek people, their language, their culture. For them the family unit and family life is the very cornerstone of society’s fabric.
                            

                      
They uphold and continue to follow the cultural traditions of each region; they honour their unique history, as do others throughout the world. Below you see my beloved karyatides, the noble ladies supporting the roof of the Erechtheion temple on the Acropolis.

     







        
The Greek understands the imperfection that is man and accepts that as part of his nature. There is a generosity of spirit that embraces humanness and forgives its frailty.
 You may not fancy eating sheep’s head but you cannot fault the generosity and hospitality of the host!



And when the wine has been quaffed and the music mingles with it in the blood, that’s when the soul of the Greek overflows and needs to express its joy or sorrow, its chara or kaimos.                         

And he will never be alone in doing that.


                                
 So, all in all, I think somehow we can cope with capital controls, we can eke out the additional taxes, but only if they contribute to something specific: to abolishing the current system and constructing the new, more just and efficient system the Greeks richly deserve. 

 One’s reality is not composed only of one’s perception, it also embodies one’s dreams.

Sunday 12 July 2015

....And The Tragedy Continues.....



Dear God, how long can this go on for? 

This morning around 3.30 am I lost my handbag, purse, credit cards, ID, the lot, and could not find my way home. It’s my classic recurring anxiety dream when I have the sense of not being in control of things – need I say more?

And the answers to my questions in my previous post: no, the banks did not open on Monday, and, yes, capital controls were set in place – and so we continue.

As I said, Tsipras drew out of negotiations and called a referendum to avoid the cracks in his own party becoming more pronounced.  That and the resulting No vote did not go down well in Europe. It was a real strategic error at the negotiating table and elsewhere: we lost their patience and comprehension, our credibility as well as valuable time.

We assumed things were improving when he was asked to put the most recently proposed measures to parliamentary vote. Ironically opposition members voted for them, acting in the national interest, while it was his own Syriza members who voted against, abstained or absented themselves – as was the case with the demoted Varoufakis. Notwithstanding, he returned to Brussels with a majority vote in favour of the measures and we assumed things would go more smoothly. Hope once again began to glimmer, only to be dashed by Germany and Finland blocking the procedure.  

I must admit Tsipras had the brio, balls, cojones – call it/them what you will – to take the stand he did, but we are all paying dearly for that now. He is decidedly between a rock and a hard place: a European blockade and mutinous colleagues. 

Cracks show up elsewhere: containers lie unclaimed at ports and terminals – no one has the money to claim them. On the bus I overheard a conversation between a lady in logistics who had a fruit-producing client desperate to get his produce to the international market. No refrigerated lorries were moving, so they were feverishly exploring other transportation options before the produce spoiled – especially in the current heat. As people panic stock, some stores report shortages of flour, sugar and paper goods – few people claim to be suffering from constipation right now!!   

 It’s amazing how you adapt. Your fears have been realized and you feel real frustration at being denied access to your own money. You lose the sense of ignominy at queuing up, eventually feeling almost grateful that you got some money out for inevitably the ATMs begin to dry out.  

  A little friend has suggested that his family build a tree-house in the forest to avoid paying rent! Of late, the local radio station plays nice, lively island dance-music to keep our spirits up. I’ve noticed a little owl taking up a perch on a nearby house in the cool of the morning and the early evening. I look out for him anxiously for he symbolises my hope that wisdom may prevail.  We all have our coping strategies. My garden has never looked better: I deracinate the couch grass as if I were wrestling with Herr Scheuble himself.  

Tomorrow I leave for Sheffield, not knowing whether, on my return, we will still be in Europe.
We had some other bad news: Margaret and Bill, friends from Aberdeen University, whom we met up with in Crieff last September, were due to come out to visit us here. Unfortunately they had to cancel the trip due to poor health.
 Fortunately, all is well on that front now and we are hoping they may come to see us in the autumn. Still, you know how it is – when visitors come there are things you look forward to showing them – especially since this was to be their first trip to Greece.

 So, guys, here are some moments we wanted to share with you: 

 







                                          
Our magnolia blooms with their intoxicating, citreous-vanilla aroma and the acacia tree’s powder-puff blooms.
                                    


 








Our local courgette festival where we sampled their wares, enjoyed watching the Cretan dancers in their finery - and you’d have loved the Thracian bag-piper – he’d been to Glasgow and played our pipes too!
  

                                                                    
What we are glad you missed was the stormy weather and torrential rain which rendered our tomato plants and strawberry patch heavily under water.                                                         

 







                                             


I was pleased with part of the garden I had redesigned. This is NOT the effect I had been aiming for:
   
                                      
                                       As I said, these are turbulent times.