And so we continue on our Aristotelian trip: we
make our visit to Ancient Stageira
on the east coast of the Halkidiki
peninsula. Clearly built on a bluff as protection from plundering
seafarers, it is quite a climb on a day when temperatures reached the upper
30s. However, on the way up, you can
take time out to enjoy the magnificent surrounding seascape.
The original city of Stageira was founded in 655BC by people from the island of Andros. It is difficult now
to imagine the strategic significance of what seems a remote area. But it was
actually occupied by Xerxes of Persia 480 BC. The area had mixed history, with
on-off pacts with Athens. Such bonds, however, were severed in 494BC and she
was to side with the Spartans against the Athenians in the Peloponnesian Wars in 431-404BC.
An interesting point
is that on the wall below can be seen what looks like a rope snaking along the
wall horizontally. Apparently that marks the point below which lies the
original stonework.
Certainly the walls look beautiful –
the stones themselves, their placing and patterning demonstrate master masonry.
In this area were the workshops.
Under the cover, are ceramic shards from the
royal pottery. Coins from the reign of Alexander of Macedon have also been
found here.
The great Macedonia
king, Philip 11, occupied and destroyed the city in 348 BC but he relented
and rebuilt the city, restoring the enslaved inhabitants to their rightful
place and status. This generosity was said to be in return for Aristotle tutoring his son, Alexander.
The large
area below is the site of the ancient agora, or market.
The walled area shows
the walls of particular shops there.
Now this staircase was a daunting one to climb
but it was worth it.
At the top, in the area excavated in 1996 by Kostas Sismanidis, is the tomb said to be the
resting place of Aristotle. He actually died in Chalkis but it is said his
ashes were returned to be interred in his birthplace.
And here am I, standing before one
of these wonderful walls, smiling, but really, really worse for the wear of all
that pounding the dust and stairs in extreme heat.
Is there no end to what I’ll do to collect
information for my blog posts?!
Thankfully, we had
made arrangements for a late lunch. Former colleague and friend, Chrissie, and
her husband, Giorgios, had kindly invited us to their lovely home nearby. Their
generous spread of meze accompanying iced ouzo, was more than welcome.
In fact, it was our second sanctuary of the
day!
