Today I’d like to share one of my favourite sweets: quince paste, or the Spanish Dulce de Membrillo. It’s the time to make it as Christmas is coming and the quinces are nicely ripened.
I don’t make it very often as you really need
to have the right conditions for it to turn out well. First you take nicely
ripened quince and scrub off the furry stuff on their skin. Below you can see
cleaned quince in the tray with the darker, ‘furry’ ones at the side.
You place your fruit in a baking tray along
with a little water and you bake them whole, skin on, until they have nicely
softened. Then, skin still on😊, you cut them into chunks, discarding the stone
in the middle. At this point you weigh how much of the cleaned fruit you have. The
chunks are then blitzed in a blender until you get a smooth creamy
substance. You may need to add a little
water to the mix for it to blend freely.
Having weighed the fruit previously, you now
place the pulp in a large pot along with roughly the same weight of sugar. Not
liking things too sweet, I tend to add less sugar and add lemon juice to taste.
It’s now that I add my secret ingredient,
though this is optional. This is the leaf of a plant known in Greece as arbaroriza
or scented geranium. Its proper botanical name is pelargonium graveolens.
In the past we have made a surprisingly delicate liqueur simply by adding some
leaves and sugar to retsina. Best tasting retsina ever, and with a beautiful
fragrance.
So, the sugar, fruit and 3 or 4 leaves are boiled until the mixture comes together to form a thick mass, separating from the sides of the pan.
Let this
cool down a little then spread it fairly thinly and evenly onto a tray lined
with parchment paper. My four large quinces produced enough to spread over two
10 x13 inch trays. The surface is then brushed generously with any kind of
alcohol which helps form a skin. I find brandy goes nicely with the fruit’s
rich flavour.
Now comes
the hard part - the trays should be set in a nice, sunny room for about 3 days
to dry out. My quinces waited uncooked for over a week until we got 3
consecutive days with guaranteed sun! I've another batch of fruit ready to be
processed but it doesn’t look as if our weather will oblige soon. ☹
Once the
paste has dried out, you cut it into pieces – I like diamond shapes– and liberally
coat with sugar and set out on plates to complete the drying out process.
If this is rigorously
done, your paste will last for months - this
produced over 100 pieces.
They look like
beautiful, gleaming gems which can make for sweet Christmas presents. I love serving them at the end of a meal with
cheese, oatcakes and port.
There you go!