Christmas 2024

 

Christmas Eve – full of excitement and expectations! Here, without coming over all Scrooge, we find that local restaurants close early and hotels are charging exorbitant prices for Christmas/New Year meals. And as a non-fish person, what is it with all this ceviche and tuna carpaccio which seem to be de rigeur on menus now? Raw fish as gourmet delicacies – eugh!                                                     

Avoiding breathalyser tests is a good reason for not going out, as is the weather. So we’re happy to entertain if people from nearby are ready to brave the elements.

                                                  

 Even our cats have got used to ‘foreigners’ invading their territory. Only last night Mr Mao tried to stare out a noisy guest in order to reduce the decibel level – quite unsuccessfully! 😊                                                       

 And they themselves ae a wonderful source of warmth; both in terms of affection and body heat. As I say, once temperatures drop, others don heavier clothes or higher-tog duvets. My husband ‘wears’ his kitties! As he reclines on the couch, they find a comfy slumber spot – a mutual thermally pleasing arrangement!                                                       

We shed our tree when we moved as it was a tad unwieldy to erect. Now we have a little crystal one on a table, under which we pile our presents. According to tradition here in Greece – and Z holds this fast – we open them on New Year’s Day when Saint Vassilis does his rounds.                                                              

 So this is a short post. Last night we had a heavy réveillon so we want a quiet, restful day. I do, of course, extend our greetings to you all on this special festive day. Fascinated as I am by all things linguistic, I was delighted to hear a Thessaloniki pavement vendor regaling passers-by with his very own greeting, ‘Merry Christma’ (sic).  I guess he was using the singular form since it’s a festival that is celebrated only once a year!

 But my-all time fave Yuletide greeting is one that Scots will appreciate especially those in the Lothian area where this sign was spotted.                                                              

  Fae Leith Navidad!!

OUZO and TSIPOURO

In my last post I focused on our grape harvesting and mentioned that most of ‘our’ grapes went into producing tsipouro. Friends asked exactly what that was – was it ouzo? So here’s my response.

First let’s look at ouzo. Incidentally, my research has led me to increase my vocabulary: rectify means to purify by distillation. The raw material that is mainly rectified could be cereal, raisins or molasses. The alcohol thus produced is distilled once again with aromatic seeds added to the amyx or cauldron.  Here’s one in action. 

                                                

Aniseed is the basic ingredient but fennel, mastiha coriander, etc. may be added. The product of this second process is known as 100% ouzo distillation, consumable only if diluted with water to 38-42% alcohol degrees. Most ouzos on the market contain 40-45% alcohol. It is interesting to note that ouzo is a protected appellation recognized by the European Union in 1989 as a national product; no other product may be thus designated.

In Mytilene locals recommend you add a few drops of water to allow the ouzo aromas to flow; others prefer to add ice. Either way such additions will cause the drink to whiten, as seen below because of the reaction of the anise oil.                                              

Now it’s time to focus on tsipouro- the name tsikoudia may also be used for the same spirit. Once ripe and ready, dark grapes are crushed and left to settle for a few days for fermentation to start. This can take about a month. In the past, producers would extract the must to make wine and only the solid residue, the pomace, was used. Now producers may include the must- (the partially fermented juice/pulp) to make tsipouro. The mass is fed into the still, where temperature and pressure are closely monitored. The first and last batches are discarded and only the ‘heart’ is used. Repeating this process, the doubly distilled superior spirit is called apostagma and can sell for double the price of ordinary tsipouro. In tsipouro the flavouring with aniseed is an option. Finally the spirit is left in barrels or bottles to settle and mature- usually not for long! :o

 Below, just ignore the label!  - this is The Boss’ first sample of superior apostagma made from this year’s harvest. 😊

                                                          

As is customary in Greece, great consideration is taken when choosing the appropriate alimentary accompaniments! These two spirits are both strong and their sweetness is nicely paired with salty or spicey appetizers.  These might be fish, seafood, pickles, sausage, cheese, olives and chunky bread.

 Below is a sample of our homemade baked beans, a small portion of which goes down nicely as an appetizer.

                                                  

 Something else we like is fried squid, potato salad, fried aubergines along with fava – dried broad beans which are cooked and pulsed like mushy peas then topped with caramelized onions - mmm!

 

                                               

The next dish is a bit posh for an everyday snack but these courgetti flowers stuffed with feta, mint and lemon rind then fried in batter are definitely worth the effort of making.

                                             

I find the classic Greek salad a little too mundane - one of our favourites is a little lettuce, lotsa rocket, parmesan shavings and balsamic cream.

                                              

 In 2006, tsipouro was recognized as a protected designation of origin product.

So next time you sit at a taverna or family table, sampling your aperitif of choice, think on all the above processes and ingredient choices.

 Enjoy your meze and άσπρο πάτο – bottom’s up!!

Grape Harvesing.

 

 Our local professional wine producers, the Gerovassiliou Estate, claimed that 2023 was a demanding year for production, given the heavy rainfall and fungal diseases. In contrast 2024, with high temperatures and little rainfall, produced grapes of exceptional quality.

Despite our dry summer, the grape vines flourished and by the first weekend in September the grapes were checked for ripeness. This can be done by measuring sugar levels, PH/acidity levels or temperature. ‘Our’ grapes, well the vineyard right in front of our bedroom, were deemed ready so it was all hands-on deck with crates and buckets. The grape types are Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which produce red wine.

 Merlot is the offspring of Cabernet Franc and Magdaline Noire ds Charentes. This second strain, discovered in an abandoned vineyard in Brittany, was found in 1996 to be the ‘mother’ by DNA testing to confirm the lineage.

 The name Merlot comes from the diminutive form of the French word merle - the blackbird. Now whether this is because of the dark colour the bird and grape share or because this bird is particularly fond of eating the grapes on the vine is anyone’s guess.  Below you can see our Merlot bunches tend to be floppier than the other grape strain.                                                

 The grape is thin-skinned and very sensitive to its environment; because of this adaptable capacity it is considered the chameleon of the grape world. It is a wine of medium acidity and its soft tannins make for a smooth taste. Its characteristics are listed as fruity: black cherry, raspberry and plum. The food said to be ideal to pair with it are scallops or prawns wrapped in bacon or prosciutto as well as grilled meats, salmon, mushrooms and greens. I love this chart Merlot flavour chart, especially the colours!                                 

                                                  

 As for Cabernet Sauvignon, it is considered the noble grape of the wine world. A cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, this means it shares the same ‘father’ as the Merlot. The grapes are thick-skinned and resistant to rot and insects, while the vine which buds later is hardy and avoids frost. Here our grape clusters are growing more strongly upright.                                           

                                                 

The grapes produce a full-bodied wine with high tannins which allow it to age well and develop in the bottle. In a medium climate its characteristics are that of mint, black pepper and eucalyptus, while warmer climes can help produce a more jammy flavour. This bold, assertive wine pairs well with steak dishes and with dishes with a heavy cream sauce. Grilled meats go well with it as do dark chocolate, mozzarella cheddar and brie.

 So here we are, all hands on deck, to get the grapes in while they are in prime condition and before any rainfall spoils them.

                                            

As you can see it’s hot work harvesting under a burning sun – this is one of my favourite photos of Zissis in action! Though it’s demanding work, he seems to be enjoying himself!                                          

 

All in all more than 700 kilos of grapes were picked, producing about 50 litres of red wine, currently maturing in its container. The remaining 60 litres were distilled to produce tsipouro, already ready for consumption, but like any good spirit, it improves with a little ageing. 😊

September Celebration - No More School. Ever! :)

 

Z used to hate having his day/time organized - being a teacher his working day was dictated by bells so weekends and holidays had to have a sense of freedom.  There are only so many new pencils and fancy stationery items you can acquire to soften the blow of getting back into scholastic harness – that applies for students and teachers alike.

Don’t get me wrong, I loved my job and was privileged to acquire really interesting educational experience, academic and administrative, at home and abroad.  But, believe me, there is nothing like being retired, having reclaimed your spirit, soul and identity as your own. Every September Znme go on a sortie to celebrate not going back to school, with the additional bonus that there are fewer people around and things are a little cheaper. All good. 😊

                                                             

So off we set for the Asymantro Hotel in the Sani area of the Kassandra peninsula of Halkidiki – about an hour away from our abode. The weather was great and on arrival we unpacked, changed and had our first sea swim of the season – magic! Normally we two can revert to speaking English when we want to speak in privacy. Here it as the reverse- we spoke Greek as that was the minority language here. In the car park of the 50 cars there only 5 had Greek number plates, the rest being predominantly Serbian and North Macedonian.                                                                                       

                           

Sadly on our second day the weather broke which ended our swimming. But we did go to visit the Byzantine fortress in nearby Nea Fokea. We also stocked up on treats for ourselves - the supermarket in the hotel complex had mark-up prices of up to 200%! For example, a litre of oil selling elsewhere at 10-12 euros was between 22-25 there.                                                   

For me the great joy is getting away from the routine we establish (even out of school :o) and, above all, being catered for. The hotel was spacious and the buffet was served on a series of islands rather than on long tables which made for easier access and avoided anxious queuing, hopefully reducing the plate-piling syndrome!! For every meal we enjoyed at least two dishes that were to our liking: I really enjoyed the gyro, the stuffed peppers/tomatoes and beef with orzo.

                                                   

The sweets on offer included a delicious apple pie with a shortbread base and crumble topping as well as a wonderful cherry pasta flora.  Certainly, we covertly collected scraps at the end of each meal - my handbag smelled like a food outlet! – as Z selected treats for his local feline friends who became accustomed to waiting outside the French window to ensure we hadn’t forgotten them.                                                                

 

There was one adverse experience: the constant miasma of their sewage system - that kind of mars things when you’re on your way to the restaurant for a meal.  Greeks are now becoming aware that in some areas the volume of tourism has reached the stage where the infrastructure cannot cope. Water and electrical supplies and sewage systems are overstretched. A friend, who has a home further south on that peninsula, recently went to the local supermarket later in the afternoon to avoid the early morning queues. Her plan backfired when she found the shelves were empty of cheese, bread and wine – the very items on her Lidl list!                                                        

      Talking of infrastructure issues reminds me of going  on holiday, being on a plane to Egypt in the early 1980s.En toute  I read a Guardian article which described how the Cairo sewage system could no longer adequately serve the city’s millions of residents and so every now and then, due to the build up of toxic gases, a man-hole would explode, emanating these gases as well as human slurry! :O The scary thing was that the local response was to cement down the manhole. That left me wondering what it would be like to be in the street of the last uncemented-down manhole in Cairo when it succumbed to the pressure and that final eruption occurred!

Fortunately we were far removed from such incidents and, despite the rainstorms, we enjoyed our September celebration. 

                                          

Και του χρόνου, as the Greeks say – let’s do the same next year !

Bute and Bottles!

 

 Here we are en route for Rothesay, on the island of Bute. Beautiful was the day as was the island. As we sailed down the River Clyde we passed Toward Castle. Originally the seat of the Clan Lamont, in World War 2 it was known as HMS Brontosaurus, having been requisitioned and used as an operations and training centre for the amphibian landings made on D Day. Donated later to Glasgow Corporation, it often housed artistic and educational events, but also operated as a refuge for children who were recovering from illness or who came from troubled or deprived backgrounds. There my cousin, Freda, and I spent several Easter holidays looking after such children when the regular teachers went on leave. We saw some very sad cases there but we had a great time in this glorious area as did the children.                                                           

                  

 But I digress. When we disembarked at Rothesay, we learned there was an agricultural show that day, so off we walked there and saw some splendid creatures. Here are fine specimens of Clyesdale horses, sporting rosettes on their tails to confirm their pedigree. Just look at the sheen on their coats! This Scottish species are draught animals, used in agriculture originally, as well pulling cargo-filled canal barges and, most splendidly, in all their finery as carriage-drawers advertising for famous companies by leading carts bearing barrels of booze!  

                                                  

Here a little red-haired lad brushes his red-haired Highland calf, proudly polishing his coat to perfection prior to being judged.                                                

After returning to Wemyss Bay by Callie Mac ferry, we continued our holiday theme by meeting good friends round the table - a very nice lunch at the Inverkip Hotel. It was lovely to see you both!                                                

There Z found a nice niche with a cache of whiskies that he was reluctant to move from.                                                  

And as we left Glasgow airport one last WOW awaited us: the sight of seriously expensive whisky safely locked away in a cabinet. At 18,750 pounds a bottle, we were not for buying! :O                                           

Glasgow : The Clyde and Kilties

 Staying in Glasgow means the wonderful River Clyde is never far away. Here we see Bell’s Bridge leading to the Armadillo, the 3,000-seater auditorium forming a part of the Scottish Event Campus. Its shape is said to represent an interlocking series of ships’ hulls, paying tribute to Glasgow’s ship-building heritage.

                                                     

While there, we were fortunate to be able to attend the annual World Pipe Band Championships held on Glasgow Green. 13 countries were represented – Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, USA, Oman, China, Ireland – sending 204 bands and more than 7,000 pipers and drummers. What amazing organization to bring all these together.

                                                    

All that blowing means we have to have services to cater for peckish pipers. One takes fish ‘n’ chips, haggis and neeps as given; but glad the Greek Gyros had a look in too!

                                              

I was delighted to see the Inveraray and District Band especially dear to me, coming from Argyll and Loch Fyne - my homeland area. My heart leapt as they marched, playing, towards the Judges’ enclosure. There they are judged on overall musical proficiency; that includes execution, expression, tone and unison. And those guys clearly meant business: they were measured, meticulous, melodic. These braw lads were kind enough to pose for me as they left the enclosure.

                                                     

You’ll recognize some of them in the Oban Times photo below announcing that their band took first place – a hat trick since they also won in 2017 and 2019. Bursting with pride, me! Aren’t they grand?                                                  

                                                        

 One goal was for Z to chalk up a visit to a different Scottish island. This we did and we even found a castle with a moat. Any idea where we went?   

                                                            

Glasgow, City of Saint Mungo

 

And so to Glasgow, where we stayed in the aptly named Z Hotel, just steps away from Queen Street Station and George Square. In this square we enjoyed our first breakfast in Wetherspoons, housed in a building originally owned by the Royal Bank of Scotland, designed in the Italian Renaissance style by JT Ruchead in 1867- 1870.                                          . 

Detractors may call it a ‘greasy spoon’company,  but we have always found all their premises we’ve visited to be perfectly good.  In this aptly named Counting House  we enjoyed good food, great servce by well-trained, cheery staff in this well-maintained, impressive building.

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 Incidentally outside in the square  you may spy a cone-bedecked equestrian statue  but this is a mere copy-cat horse – the authentic one of the Duke of Wellington stands out front at The Gallery of Modern Art nearby. This houses temporary exhibitions and Angeliki and I visited it some years ago.  

                                             

Ours was a short visit there as, on seeing an exhibit of underwear - soiled at that! - we left in disgust.  This time, thankfully Z and I saw no briefs but overall we found it uninspired and uninspiring. In fact, in modern idiomatic parlance, it really was pants !!  The best piece was the cone-capped Duke. :o    It bears no resemblance to the Athenian  National Museum of Modern Art whose exhibits  are topical and informative, and somehow are displayed to complement and enhance  the building’s features.

What really impressed us were the Glasgow City Chambers, designed by the Scottish architect William Young, the construction of this Victorian-style edifice began in 1882. This has housed various forms of municipal administration since 1889.

                                             

The entire building radiates opulence and speaks of the past glory of Glasgow as an international trade centre. There are amazing stained glass windows and the marble columns have the most magnificent rich sheen.                                 

On the floor we see the city coat of arms in mosaic form.  The design features - a bird, a tree a bell and a fish -are said to represent miracles performed by St Mungo, aka St Kentigern, Glasgow’s patron saint.                                             

The final shot is of Z enjoying Chinese food in the Zhima Brasserie, again close to George Square.

 We had a lovely sweet and sour dish, but all our memories of Glasgow are sweet – and there are more to come!!                                    

Revisiting Auld Reekie.

 

  I wanted to share some of our Edinburgh experience after the wedding anniversary celebrations.  Strange to think I spent the first six years of my teaching career in this area. It seems like another life now.                                           

After a leisurely breakfast we made our way to the Royal Botanic Gardens not far from the city centre - but we taxi-ed there and back! Here‘s the well-known skyline of the Castle ramparts from there – and a tourist enjoying the view and the warm weather!!

                                             

Now apparently the older gardens are known as Botanic whereas the more modern gardens are Botanical. How language changes! Certainly, we were lucky to have sunshine to enjoy the gardens which boast over 70 acres of landscape and were founded in 1670. We particularly liked the lily pond  ………..

                                           

………   and the most beautiful hydrangea blooms of delicate mauves and pinks.

                                             

After all that walking around, we decided to dine in the hotel on that evening -  our last in Edinburgh. A very pleasant meal in very pleasant company – all wearing comfy shoes. 😊

                                                 

Next morning greeted us with a grey cloud-covered sky - we had been so fortunate the previous day. As we took our taxi to the station, the kindly driver offered to drop us off at Haymarket Station to avoid the inevitable traffic congestion in the centre during festival time.

Z decided we should go ahead to Waverley Station as planned as he fancied seeing the sights there and a jolly good decision that was too!

Here we see the towering spires of the Victorian Gothic-style Scott Monument. Dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, it is the second largest monument in the world raised to honour a writer.                                                        

  I leave you the impressive façade of The Royal Scottish Academy of Art and Architecture. Those of you who have seen the film Sunshine in Leith will be familiar with it!

                                            

Sadly we didn’t have time to visit the gallery and enjoy the exhibitions – next time!

 So off we set for Glasgow – a short train trip to the other side of the country - the west and best!! 😊