Thirty-nine years on - revisiting Vergina.

 Helping celebrate my 40 years in Greece was Rosie, a friend from university days in Aberdeen and our early teaching careers in Edinburgh. She has played a pivotal role in my life: I spent my first holidays in Greece with Rosie in 1974. Our first news of the Junta falling was heard as we made our way to the beach. Here we are in the days of our youth.

 Since then we have shared further eventful times. In 1978 she was brave enough to come out just after the great earthquake hit the city. At that time Professor Manolis Andronicus (below) had been making amazing archaeological finds at Vergina; he had found what turned out to be the tomb of Philip II of Macedonia, father of Alexander the Great.

                                      

So braving the local transport systems and summer heat, we made our way there. But on arrival we were disappointed to find the tumulus was fenced off - all we could see was an inaccessible hole in the hill!  Next to that is a recent shot of us standing at the entrance to the amazing museum on that very spot. So there was nothing then for us to do but seek refuge from the heat in the only – and rather kitschly named – Philip’s Café.                    

 

   

Imagine, then, our surprise when, as we sipped our cool drinks, a little local lad erupted into the café to tell us Andronicus’ team  on the dig had found ‘lots of gold’ and wanted ouzo, brandy and coffee to celebrate! Suddenly our mood swung from despondence to amazement: we were actually right there at the Vergina site when history was made!

Below we can see the well-known bust of Philip II, and next to him, we see the golden larnax, adorned with the symbol of the Greek Kingdom of Macedonia which came to be known as the Vergina sun. It was in this breathtakingly beautiful container that Philip’s remains were laid to rest. 

                                 

Below we see Philip’s golden grave crown. Some years ago when I was taking a walk in the woods, as the autumn sun cast its diffused rays through the foliage of an oak tree, I appreciated where the creator had found his inspiration. It is a truly awe-inspiring piece.

                        

 

  Rosie is a splendid archivist, with notes, pamphlets and news-paper cuttings recording her every trip. So, armed with her data, we were to retrace our steps to Vergina, this time with our respective husbands and in an air-conditioned car as the temperatures on that day reached 40oC.

The museum housing the treasures presents them as they were found so you look down at the model as if discovering the tomb there and then. Completely by chance, Rosie and I found ourselves alone at the entrance above. Piecing all the information together we realised that this third tomb, the Prince’s tomb, was the one that was discovered when we were there. And that our previous visit had been exactly thirty-nine years ago - how about that? That was an electrifying experience – one which we both found extremely moving, and one that affirmed our bonds of friendship. 

   

So off we went to slake our thirst and to celebrate - where else?  At Philip’s Cafe!!