Inveraray Castle

Our May stay in Glasgow included a trip to Loch Lomond and Inveraray, so that Anna, our neighbor, could truly say she had been to the Scottish West Highlands.

 The day dawned wet and windy, while a thick mist concealed ‘the bonnie bonnie banks’ and the landscape surrounding that truly beautiful loch.  On our way down Loch Fyne to Tarbert and Kilberry, we have driven past Inveraray Castle countless times, but I don’t recall ever venturing inside. So this was a grand opportunity.

  

 

We raced from the car, hoods up, umbrellas braced against the lashing rain and thankfully reached the colourful protection of the flower-festooned entrance. Castle construction began in 1743 and it is built in Gothic Revival style– apparently! For it to enjoy a more secluded setting, the entire village of Inveraray was actually moved in the 1770s! Now it enjoys a 16-acre garden and a 60,000-acre estate with tenant farming, commercial fishing, wind and hydro-power production … and lots of resident deer.

                   

 

Once inside, we were welcomed by local ladies, resplendent in kilts of different Campbell tartan. One of the initial impressive sights was the collection of pikes, muskets, swords, etc. artfully displayed on the walls. One does not normally associate décor with items of weaponry. This magnificent cairngorm grabbed my attention - you can just imagine this being worn with panache, pinning in place a sweeping fine-wool plaid at some formal function.

                                

 

The tableau of the working kitchen was fascinating: astonishing to see so many exotic, culinary ingredients - such as ginger, cinnamon, garlic, cloves – available to family and guests in this far-flung part of Argyll! There must have been some glorious aromas emanating from that pig roasting on the spit! This castle, of course, featured as ‘Duneagle Castle’ in the 20102 Christmas episode of Downton Abbey. I’m sure many viewers of this popular series were, like me, intrigued by the scenes depicting what downstairs life was like – preparing and presenting luxurious meals to the upstairs gentry.

                    

 

A revered ancestor and early clan member was known as MacCailein Mor Caimbeul, Colin Mor Campbell, or Colin the Great, a title that every chief of the Clan Campbell has adopted since then. Over the years the family has had bad press: their involvement in the notorious Massacre of Glencoe in 1692, their alliance with English royalty rather than with the Scottish Pretenders, the Stewarts, all assisted in their inclusion in the triad of the curses of Argyll : the bracken, the midges and the Campbells!

The present Duke, Torquhil Ian, assumed the title in 2001, and lives with his family in the castle in a private residential area, not accessible to the public. He married Eleanor, one of the Cadbury family, and they have three children. Based in London, he is a consultant, promoting some well-known brands of Scotch whisky.

                                       

        

 We left the castle in even heavier rain - Anna agreed to take my picture but she is not a very experienced photographer!

                                           

 Back to our Clyde-side hotel, for a welcome meal and a wee drink or two to warm us up. 

                       

We say goodbye to Angeliki who stays on to continue her stint teaching on the Glasgow University pre-sessional course.

                                    

 

 Then, all too soon, it’s time for us to go – basking in one of that great city’s sunny smiles.                  

                                                 

We are convinced we could hear the Clyde’s lapping waters gently whisper, 'Haste ye back!’