And so we continue on our Aristotelian trip: we make our visit to Ancient Stageira on the east coast of the Halkidiki peninsula. Clearly built on a bluff as protection from plundering seafarers, it is quite a climb on a day when temperatures reached the upper 30s. However, on the way up, you can take time out to enjoy the magnificent surrounding seascape.
The original city of Stageira was founded in 655BC by people from the island of Andros. It is difficult now to imagine the strategic significance of what seems a remote area. But it was actually occupied by Xerxes of Persia 480 BC. The area had mixed history, with on-off pacts with Athens. Such bonds, however, were severed in 494BC and she was to side with the Spartans against the Athenians in the Peloponnesian Wars in 431-404BC.
An interesting point is that on the wall below can be seen what looks like a rope snaking along the wall horizontally. Apparently that marks the point below which lies the original stonework.
Certainly the walls look beautiful – the stones themselves, their placing and patterning demonstrate master masonry. In this area were the workshops.
Under the cover, are ceramic shards from the royal pottery. Coins from the reign of Alexander of Macedon have also been found here.
The great Macedonia king, Philip 11, occupied and destroyed the city in 348 BC but he relented and rebuilt the city, restoring the enslaved inhabitants to their rightful place and status. This generosity was said to be in return for Aristotle tutoring his son, Alexander.
The large area below is the site of the ancient agora, or market.
The walled area shows
the walls of particular shops there.
Now this staircase was a daunting one to climb but it was worth it.
At the top, in the area excavated in 1996 by Kostas Sismanidis, is the tomb said to be the resting place of Aristotle. He actually died in Chalkis but it is said his ashes were returned to be interred in his birthplace.
And here am I, standing before one of these wonderful walls, smiling, but really, really worse for the wear of all that pounding the dust and stairs in extreme heat.
Is there no end to what I’ll do to collect information for my blog posts?!
Thankfully, we had made arrangements for a late lunch. Former colleague and friend, Chrissie, and her husband, Giorgios, had kindly invited us to their lovely home nearby. Their generous spread of meze accompanying iced ouzo, was more than welcome.
In fact, it was our second sanctuary of the day!
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